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2015-01-21 20:19

『转载』SIHH 2015 Live report of the Lange novelties

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[tr=transparent][td=80%]转自timezone

SIHH 2015 Live report of the Lange novelties

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Tue, 20 January 2015 05:00

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The crop of novelties from Lange this year is quite large. We have already covered the two major pieces viz the Lange 1 Tourbillon Handwerkskundst

in December, and the Lange Zeitwerk Minute Repeater

. Here we cover the rest of the novelties.

Lange Datograph Perpetual

We have always found the combination of white metal and the Lange grey dial to be exceptionally fetching. The Datograph Perpetual is no exception. The watch was available in this combination for a short period, and taken off the catalog. We are not quite clear of the reason for its removal, but are glad it is making a comeback.

On the wrist, the slate grey dial in combination with the warm glow of the white gold case is beautiful.

Datograph Ab/Auf in Pink Gold

Next up, the Datograph Ab/Auf in Pink Gold.

The original Datograph was a tour de force
in watchmaking. It took the world by storm in 1999, and was updated in 2012 with the Ab/Auf. The watch was previously only available in platinum, but one popular edition from the original Datograph (mk1) was the pink gold case, black dialed version...popularly known as the Dufourgraph, as the Grandmaster Philippe Dufour made a declaration that this was the only watch he had bought, in retail with his own money. And the only watch which he wears regularly which is not made by himself. Great praise indeed.

The movement, unchanged, and still totally mesmerising. A design masterpiece, which first made its appearance in 1999.

So now the Ab/Auf, version 2 of the original Datograph, slightly larger, longer power reserve, is made available in pink gold. At the German retail of €64,000 inclusive of VAT, it remains a magnificent purchase.

Lange 1

The new Lange 1, an icon in design, first introduced in 1994, still as fresh as ever.

Looks like the same watch as it has been since its introduction in 1994? Almost. The dial side is exactly the same as the original. Every detail is identical. No point updating on perfection. So the Lange team was wise to leave the proportions alone. Almost...the bezel is slightly thnner, but that's is about all. But turn it over, and the eagle eyed will spy the difference

The new Lange 1 movement. Caliber L121.1, now featuring the inhouse manufactured balance system with eccentric weights.

Indeed, the new movement has a revised balance wheel, now made inhosue in Glashütte. The new balance is larger than the original one, and now equipped with eccentric weights for regulation. Also new, but not visible is the outsized date. It now jumps precisely at 12 midnight to the new date, instead of being dragged over from about 1145 to 1210 in the earlier L901. The new movement also takes on the technical characteristics of the Grande Lange 1, now with a revised power reserve of 72 hours (instead of the 96 hours in L901, and now equipped with 43 jewels (instead of 53).

The Saxonia Trio

The Saxonia Trio: Handwound, Dual Time and Automatic.

The Saxonia is a mainstay of the brand since its launch. It was updated once, the case sizes enlarged, but this year, it returns to the original size. The handwound version has returned to the original size of 35mm, and the DualTime and Automatic now 38mm.

Movement of the handwound Saxonia, caliber L941.1, remains original and unchanged. Note the original screw balance wheel is still featured.

The automatic Saxonia movement looks the same from the case back as the one in the Dual Time, both automatic, with a large rotor. Caliber L086.1 and L086.2

On the wrist, the new stepped bezel is rather more elegant than the original more chunky bezel.